Complices
complices
Aix-en-Provence
Restaurant · Aix-en-Provence★ A cuisine of stories, memories and complicity ★30 Place des Cardeurs
00Journal · Terroir

Specialities of Aix-en-Provence: calisson, typical dishes and local flavours to taste on the spot

A food guide to old Aix, from confectioners to markets
The essentials in 30 seconds

The emblematic speciality of Aix is the calisson: ground almonds and candied melon on wafer paper, topped with royal icing.

The Aix area is also known for protected-origin olive oil and winter black truffle.

Tapenade, fougasse or daube are Provençal rather than strictly from Aix. Find local produce at the old-town markets, then sit down at Complices, Place des Cardeurs, 7/7.

Illustration of specialities to taste in Aix-en-Provence: sweets, olives and Southern flavours on a Provençal table

Pays d'AixA town of confectioners, olive oil and markets.

01Terroir

What is an Aix speciality?

Aix, Provence or Marseille: putting each flavour in its place

Bouillabaisse belongs to Marseille, socca to Nice. Aix has a quieter food identity: the calisson, olive oil and markets.

Many dishes eaten in Aix are Provençal rather than local; this guide separates fact from legend.

02The emblem

The calisson d'Aix, the emblematic speciality

Almond, candied melon and royal icing

A slim, pearly-white lozenge, the calisson is inseparable from Aix and its confectioners.

History and legends of the calisson

A popular legend links it to King René's wedding in the 15th century; other theories point to Italy. What is established is that Aix made it its own, and a blessing of calissons is still linked to a 17th-century plague vow.

Ingredients: almond, candied melon, royal icing, wafer

Four elements in careful balance.

Base

Almond

Finely ground for a melting texture.

Fruit

Candied melon

Brings a fruity sweetness.

Top

Royal icing

A thin, crisp white glaze.

Bottom

Wafer paper

A thin unleavened base.

A good calisson is supple, fruity without hiding the almond, with a clean glaze.

Where and how to taste it in Aix

Visit an old-town confectioner, compare and taste one before buying a box. Keep them away from heat.

TipBuy your calissons at the end of your walk, not the start.
03Sweets

Other sweets of the Aix area

From strictly Aix to broadly Provençal

Around the calisson, a family of sweets — most of them Provençal in the broad sense.

  1. Linked to Aix

    Biscotins

    Small, very crunchy round biscuits, traditionally associated with Aix.

  2. Provençal

    Candied fruit

    A Provençal craft, especially associated with Apt.

  3. Provençal

    Pompe à l'huile

    An olive-oil brioche, one of the thirteen Christmas desserts.

If it bears the name of Aix or has long been made here, call it Aixois; otherwise, Provençal.

04Savoury

Savoury: typical dishes to taste in Aix

Provençal cooking at the Aix table

Aix has no savoury dish of its own like bouillabaisse; it belongs to Provençal cooking.

Tapenade, anchoïade, fougasse, stuffed vegetables, daube

Olive tapenade, anchovy anchoïade, flat fougasse bread, summer stuffed vegetables and winter beef daube: shared across Provence, enjoyed in Aix.

Illustration of Provençal specialities to taste in Aix-en-Provence

The Provençal repertoireDishes shared across Provence, gladly tasted in Aix.

To understand what flavours them, read our article on herbes de Provence in the kitchen.

Truffle and olive oil of the Aix area

True terroir

The Aix olive oil has a protected designation, with local varieties such as aglandau, salonenque and cayanne.

Black truffle is a winter affair in Provence; buy it fresh, in season.

Tomato tartare and burrata drizzled with olive oil
05Markets

Markets, the showcase of local specialities

Where terroir is shown and tasted

A daily food market on Place Richelme, and a large market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Ask producers where things come from.

Illustration of a Provençal market in the old town of Aix-en-Provence
Every morning, in old Aix

Terroir on display

Olives, local oils, tapenades, goat cheese, honey, candied fruit and winter truffles.

Calendar and practical tips in our guide to market days in Aix-en-Provence.

06Decoding

Aix specialities or Mediterranean dishes? Reading a menu

Getting the labels right
Illustration: reading the menu of a Mediterranean restaurant in Aix-en-Provence
The right words

Aixois means from Aix, Provençal means from the region, Mediterranean draws on all cuisines around the sea. Protected origins like the Aix olive oil or Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence wines tell you precisely where they come from.

07The table

Tasting the spirit of the South in the old town

Complices, Place des Cardeurs
Cooking with stories

Complices is a contemporary Mediterranean table at 30 Place des Cardeurs — fully homemade, with a short seasonal menu.

Our signatures — Coquillettes de notre enfance, Soleil des Cardeurs, Galinette de Méditerranée, Cookie indécent — are ours, not traditional Aix specialities. Open 7/7, lunch and dinner.

The large Complices table with rattan chairs, in the old town of Aix-en-Provence
08Questions

Your questions about Aix specialities

Before your food walk
What is THE speciality of Aix-en-Provence?

The calisson: almond and candied melon on wafer paper, topped with royal icing.

Was the calisson really born in Aix?

Its origins are debated (King René legend, Italian theories); Aix clearly made it its speciality.

What to bring back from Aix?

Calissons, Aix olive oil, biscotins, candied fruit, tapenade or herbes de Provence.

Which typical dishes to try in restaurants?

Provençal dishes: tapenade, fougasse, stuffed vegetables, daube; truffle in winter.

Where to buy local produce in Aix?

At the old-town markets, confectioners, delicatessens and mills of the Aix area.

Aix speciality or Provençal speciality?

Aixois is specific to Aix (calisson, Aix olive oil); Provençal is shared by the whole region.

Going further

Also on the site

After the food walk, all these flavours lead to our restaurant aix-en-provence, Place des Cardeurs, lunch and dinner, 7/7.

09Book

After the food walk, take a seat

Place des Cardeurs · 7/7, lunch & dinner

After the food walk, take a seat on Place des Cardeurs, 7/7, lunch and dinner.

06 31 70 36 66
Address30 Place des Cardeurs, 13100 Aix-en-Provence
Opening7/7, lunch & dinner